Open the large black plastic box Power Distribution Box on the left side of the engine compartment, closer to the firewall - it's up high and easily accessed. Place two large straight pins in the plug of the blower motor but leave the blower motor plugged in. The horn is located in the left fender well hidden. Phil Thanks for your advice. When I install a new fuse, everything is fine for about four uses of the truck and then the fuse blows. You have to keep up with the oldest parts, and replace them before they do fail. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Can you please elaborate on the 2 statements? The screw on the left side of it has already been removed. Yes - I am useing the correct fuse - 30 amp. If it does then you have a problem with the connection at the plug. Also The power to the fan does not go directly to the relay. If the windows worked well before but became intermittent, I'd be checking the switches. The electrical conector is still hooked up to it though.
Now we've gone too far off topic so I'll leave this argument with one final thought - Treat symptoms, not paranoia. We also cover the Ford Ranger, Explorer Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Lincoln Aviator, Mazda Navajo, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar. It is fairly common for these wires to chafe through the insulation and break completely or short to ground when the shift lever is moved into certain positions. Of course you have every right to sell yours if it's such a big inconvenience. The design resists thermal fuse failure, overheating, and burnout.
Replacing the motor isn't too hard, getting the parts like the overflow bottle out of the way, took a while. Or the relay is something different? There's nothing particularly carcinogenic trapped in the fan compared to whatever entered the cabin that wasn't trapped in a fan housing. I like it this way but on our trucks it's either off or air. If not, you have a bad motor. Blower motor is located passenger side behind glove compartment. If it does, I'd add something more abrasion resistant to protect the wires. Maybe heatshrink tube or vacuum line or plastic convolute or similar.
Just did this 15 minutes ago Be sure to close the lid on the box when done! This is all assuming you have the regular heater controls with the turn style switches and not the electronic controls. I taped the wires and repositioned them a bit. The blower is upstream of the evaporator core so the moisture that mold needs is past that point in the system. There is a little box behind the passenger headlamp. The fuse blows about 20-30 seconds after the defrost setting is selected. Didn't think much of it so I switched it to the off position.
The truck operates ok, however the blower fan quits and the passenger air bag light shows up on in the instrument panel. This problem was there before the ac was removed from the system. Brake dust and mold would be a very low % of contaminants in it. But that's all it takes. You can make your own fused jumper wire by using an inline fuse holder that you can buy at your local auto parts store and insert a 30 amp fuse into it. A while ago my fan blower quit working and only worked on high speed.
The ac is still mounted in the engine compartment but I bypassed it with a diffent belt. We only sell parts from trusted brands like so that you can find quality parts you can count on. Your first post mentioned that problem occurred when the setting was turned to defrost. You can also power the motors with jumpers to insure the motors work. Elite Explorer members see practically no ads, can add their own profile photo, upload photo attachments in all forums, and Media Gallery, create more private Conversations, and more. Fuse 37 is solely for the use of the blower motor fan, fan speed and relay and not related to the heater mode switch.
I can change the switch to any of the desired fan settings. Are there any tricks to removing this piece? Skip the repair shop, our top-rated mechanics come to you. By the way, the original blower motor on your 4. Have your wife put her head under the hood, just over the radiator cap. The power for the blower motor comes straight from a 30 amp fuse that is hot in run. Connect the other end of the jumper wire to your Ford's battery negative terminal. Second, check to see if there is any power at the blower motor.
I should mention that the air conditioner has been removed from the system. Only box I have behind the headlight is the air box, and then the windshield washer fluid tank and coolant tank. Like a 9 dollar part. If the brushes are worn, you can sometimes make the window work one last time by giving the door a good thump to jar the armature and possibly get better brush contact. This black box contains relays.
Here is the resistor mounted in the heater box. You can replace the resistor and pigtail without pulling anything else, so that is the first thing to try. Turn on the ignition and turn the blower switch through each position. This box will disappear once registered! Don't worry, once you get to the site they'll make sure it fits by asking you the specifics of your particular Ford vehicle. Thanks to this forum we found the same problem in the steering column. One thing you can opt to do is take the back off of a fuse and solder in a auto headlight to the top of the and brake the internal part that way all current flows through the bulb. I've done some research and narrowed it down to a few possible factors that may be wrong such as resistor, fuses, or the blower motor itself.