But, when wired directly to the battery, the pump engages like it is supposed to do. You will need to download the Power Supply and Ground Circuit manual. But you must hear when starting working, and falow the click. Right now I'm not 100 percent sure I would tell you the right two terminals to connect, so a safer way is to pop the cover off the fuel pump relay, reinstall it that way, then squeeze the contact. I pulled the fuel pump and hooked the new pump to the wiring harness and it is not doing anything.
The light will light up when you find the one going to ground through the pump motor. The pump should only run for one or two seconds after you turn on the ignition switch to insure pressure is up for starting. Consumer expresses discontent related to vehicle recall the consumer stated it took Nissan 7 months to send a notice stating the parts were available. Checked all fuse and they are working fine. The consumer had the vehicle towed to her personal mechanic and upon inspection, it was determined the problem was with the fuel pump. Pumps are diagnosed by checking for voltage on the 12 volt feed wire. One terminal should read open.
I added gas because the truck was trying to crank over. Also, have you checked for spark? If that doesn't work, remove that relay again and do a continuity test on the remaining two terminals, not the two that had 12 volts. About one percent are caused by just no spark. The middle row seat locked, but did not catch in order to keep the consumer from going forward. The fuel pump had better not run with just the ignition switch turned on. Where is the fuel pump relay? First check fuse 48, a 15 amp, in the under-hood fuse box. What are we suppose to do when our warrenty runs out!!!.
You can do that while a helper is cranking the engine, but to do it yourself, I find it easier to bypass the fuel pump relay. If they see 12 volts for one second, next they check the ground circuit for continuity. I checked the fuse, fuse is ok. About the Gauges, in the circuit of the front panel, it have a transistor that suply more or less 8volts to the gauges gas and temp. Is there a relay that sends the signal for the pump to kick on? Usually, I thought, that after the key was turned on, the fuel pump would engage. Yup the redesigned relays which no longer look like the old but the relay is in there which are not labeled because they are internal and not serviceable I believe.
Went to replace the fuel pump, completely pulled the tank and found that it had been changed out before I bought the truck. By this time I suspect you will have either found fuse 48 blown or there is no continuity to ground through the pump motor. I've check the fuse box next to the battery, and also next to the driver's left knee. They replace the brake pads and resurface the rotors and they replaced the fuel pump assembly all these problems in less than a year for my 2004 Armada. Thanks for posting the pics. The test for 12 volts is much more valid if it is done with the pump plugged in and you back-probe the wires through the rubber seal in the connector.
I spent money on finding the problem, they checked my starter motor, alternator, battery n found nothing. Usually there is a way to wrap a rubber band around it or wedge a piece of thin cardboard in it to keep it turned on. So, I do not believe the pump is bad, as stated. The pump will not run until the engine is being cranked. Posted on Dec 22, 2009 If it is blowing fuses, it has not been 'fixed'-the fuel pump is drawing more current than the circuit was designed to handle, pointing to two possiblilties, either a fault in the wiring harness to the pump, or the pump itself is drawing too much current duo to wear possibly overheating due to running the tank low-gas 'cools' the fuel pump so running a tank low is often fatal to a fuel pump, especially an older one. Next, remove the fuel pump relay from that box and check for voltage on the terminals in the socket.
Read this guide on testing relays, it will help See the diagram below for the relay wiring My fuel pump went bad left me on the side of the interstate. The vehicle needed a new engine. Then noticed the fuel pump would not run. To do so would pose a serious fire hazard if a fuel line got ruptured in a crash. You won't get enough current through corrosion or carbon-tracking to run a test light or the pump, so those will give a more accurate indication if the circuit is okay.
So I tested the new pump by connecting it to the wiring harness. Also when pressing on the brakes the vehicle shook so violently that one could not hang onto the wheel. I know fuel pump sending unit is bad in these trucks and there has to be a solution to get this problem fixed. Currently the vehicle had 12, 000 miles on it. If that is good, that just leaves the pump.