When the bearing is in place there should be room for the retaining c clip to go back. Checked to see if it was brake fluid but did not seems like it, nor was the area where the brake piston was wet from leaking. But it got the job done. If there is oil on the shoes replace them or they will be grabby at low speed and worthless at high speed, not good when you have a lightly loaded rear end or trying to stop a heavy load. Well, ok, it rides like an 18 year old truck with a new rear end. Identification From Axle Tag: The axle tag is bolted to the rear differential cover, and is held on with one of the cover bolts. Tighten to 70 lbs-ft, then back nut off 90 degrees, check for side to side end play.
I would also turn the drums as using brake clean does not do a good job of completely removing the gear oil that has soaked into the metal, a light cut will take care of it. So if you can afford it, get the shafts replaced. I will try the seals after. Pinion gear bearings, worn gear set and all kinds of other stuff. It is a known problem with the 8. Grease the outer bearing in the same manner and set it aside. I pulled the axle out yesterday afternoon and drove it over to my mechanics this morning to press the old bearing off and the new one on.
Worn out u joints can cause vibrations at highway speeds, squeezing noises at low speeds, and in some cases a clunking noise when the transmiissin is placed in park or drive. Bearing failures not caused by normal material fatigue are called permanent failures. Ask us this when you get your quote. I borrowed a slide hammer and bearing removal kit from Auto Zone. I use my truck for my job and I don't have the time to mess with it. This included the V6 and I4 engines that were used with Ranger vehicles.
Refer to Brake Rotor Replacement in Disc Brakes. Other signs of failure are also vibrations felt under your seat or a rhythmic clicking or squeak that increases with speed. I used a bungee cord to hang mine up. I mean if there is minimal run-out of this bearing it will destroy the new seal in some 100 mls and you're going to repeat this work. Getting the seal out is, honestly, the hardest part of this job. Tap the dust cover on the hub with the hammer.
Which is just what I was fixing to do. Tighten the castellated nut with the channel locks, but align the cotter pin hole with the nut and spindle. I'm a non-mech type just trying to learn so D-I-Y, and was pleasantly surprised that I was able to accomplish this task with a positive outcome. Lack of venting can cause seal leaks when rearend gets hot and the expansion caused internal pressure has to be relieved somewhere. This is my story so far and I guess after checking the front left axle, the next step is pulling the rear axle shafts.
The most common sign of U-joint bearing failure is clunking when shifting from park to drive or reverse. Once the seals are out, clean the surfaces as well as you can. These are commonly found as rear axles on rear-wheel-drive vehicles, but can also be found on the front and rear of four-wheel-drive vehicles. Or, you could go a cheaper route, although only a band-aid. The wheel end or the differential end? So what is the estimate labor hour would this job take? Keep up the good work. The consensus I've received on my axle shafts, is that they need replacing. Although, this particular one I wasn't too fond of.
The most common failure is a bearing goes bad and damages the surface of the axle where the bearing rides on the axle. You might need bearings, shims or other components. The Haynes manual says those sound variations usually indicate bad axle shaft bearings. Now it's easy as pie to slide the shaft out. But it got the job done. More if you have an aftermarket heavy duty cover.
It is strange that it was very liquid, like motor oil. While the gear lube is draining, take a chance to go ahead and remove all your brake hardware so you can remove the axle shafts. Tighten the wheel nuts to 140 Nm 100 ft. I then took the old bearing and a chunk of 2x4. So I assume the problem is with the drivers side axle shaft bearings.
The caliper bolts take a 10mm socket. Do I need any special tools to fix it? Our X is a 1992 and came stock with 3. Feb 20, 2015 Ron, if you are talking about the nut on the end of the hub, it goes as follows. Slide the axle in until you feel the splines match and the bearing center in the axle tube. Does the rear wheel also have wheel bearings or do the axle shaft bearings serve as the wheel bearings also? This will open that slot up enough so that you can tap the upper control arms and toe links out of their holes.
The bearings should be replaced not adjusted. I had some trouble removing the bearing with the 3 jaw slide hammer I got from Autozone a loaner tool. You will need a few specialized tools dial indicator, bearing puller etc. Use your wooden stick and mini-sledge. Slide the axle shaft back in, replace c-clip, and we're done with that side! Plus you could get an 8. I like to put some bearing grease on the roller bearings after installing them. Push the axles in to gain access to the C clips and use a strong pocket magnet to turn them and remove them.