Howdy y'all, this is my first post so I thought I'd post my experience today changing my transmission filter. First, I put the parking brake on, then jacked up the rear end and put two jack stands to allow myself some more working room. Although the bulletins are for tech. I cleaned up the pan and bolt areas with some carb cleaner and a rag before unbolting all the way around, leaving just the four corners until I was ready to start draining the fluid. I decided I deserved something cold and delicious, so I drove it to the frozen yogurt place in town. It's a 4L60E transmission, shallow pan.
Next, I unbolted the transmission from the mounting bracket. So I wasn't able to take the pan off to completely drain the pan but it was partway off enough for me to change the filter out. Cause was lack of ground wire between control module and transmission causing erratic fluid pressures. Use a flashlight to see inside the pan to find the magnet if you need to. Even with the transmission lifted as high as it will go, the pan would not come off. Expect to spend 1-2 hours from jacking up the rear all the way to leak checking after refilling, depending on your speed and skill level.
Then I turned the truck on and shifted through all the positions, stopping at each one for a few seconds, before sliding back into 'park'. All posts in here are put up for all to read and gain information on how to do something to their silverado or sierra. The space is simply too tight. Checked for any spot leaks none. .
The transmission shifting is like butter. Vehicle would not go from one gear to another. I used a 13mm combination wrench for the hard to get bolts in the rear because my socket wrench wouldn't fit. Tsb described the defect, I was not notified. I'll flush the entire system later this week using the transmission cooler lines, tubing, and two buckets.
Transmission started slipping and stopped shifting into 3rd gear at 50,000 miles. There's nothing really technically difficult about this, but it requires far more effort than changing your oil. The mounting bracket is in the way and the transmission is about half a centimeter still on the bolt, so the mounting bracket can't be slid over either. In the picture in the rear passenger side, but the rear driver side of the pan looks the same. Was rebuilt at trans service shop. On this particular year and model it's not the most pleasant task, but if you're interested in doing it yourself then read on.
Fluid level was correct when I checked it after eating. This forum is meant only for members who wish to post the specific steps to complete a project or modification of some sort. Here's to another 35,000 miles! I then put the bolts back on don't do it too tightly or you'll get a leak. Unbolted the last bolts, leaving the rear two partially on to let the bulk of the fluid drain into a pan, then unbolted them fully. I unbolted the heat shield shield see above pic between the transmission and exhaust pipe on the passenger side to make the passenger side bolts easier to get to see above pic. This was preventable from Chevy's perspective.
The magnet is also accessible to wipe the metal shavings off with a lint-free wrag. Consumer states that the transmission is currently changing correctly, however now there is a fluid leak, dealer wants to charge consumer for these repairs. The magnet is rear to the filter, you'll see 4 bumps on the underside of the pan when you're up close to get an exact location. Make sure you have a nice level surface like your driveway and be safe. Please only post in this section if you have directions on how to do a modification, complete a task, or steps to take to resolve a problem.
If an oil and filter change is a 1 on a scale of 1-10, I'd probably give this a 3. If your truck has the deep version of the pan or an otherwise bigger pan, you may need more than 3-4 quarts to refill it. . . . .
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