Anyway, I live in Louisiana so I wont need the heater for a while. Don't use a cleaner with alcohol for interior as the yuk doesn't just wipe off the first time from glass and any vinyl or plastic and most plastic junk is painted. I want to make sure I can see everything to make sure I don't miss anything. This is because the core itself is compromised. The cover, ducting, airbag, instrument cluster, all the wiring, glovebox, stereo, etc. Especially if it's a 97 or later F-150 pertinent to this forum.
It's archived somewhere at this site ideas on how to stop that. If this did help you, could you please share it up socially? It looked like someone had already replaced the blend door and damaged the heater core while doing it, and that's what caused the leak. Air passes through the core and then into the cabin of the truck, keeping it warm. The YouTube channel RealFixesRealFast has a 3 part series replacing the heater core on an F150 very similar to mine that was extremely helpful. The blend doors in the air condition box are a common failure for breaking. One screw is sometimes holding several layers of plastic on at once and I jump the gun puting the screw in too soon. Our goal is to be a friendly community that welcomes enthusiasts of all makes and models! I believe the block has a coolant bypass built in behind the water pump as coolant needs to circulate when the thermostat is closed so pinching the heater hoses shouldnt cause any problems.
It will be much easier. Dorman has an updated door that eliminates that problem. Here is what I could find for you: Disconnect the negative battery cable. Without that gasket I have heard from several sources that it may well leak inside the cab when it rains. I got the top cover off, checked the blend door.
I tossed one in my toolbox for future use putting the hoses back together after core replacement. This solution is bypassing the heater core by connecting its inlet and outlet hoses together thereby removing the heater core from the system. My brother's 94 Ranger took about 20 minutes. Right now I have it torn apart almost all the way in my driveway, and had to finally take a break after 3 hours. Driving out on the open road, the last thing that you want to worry about is keeping a towel on your dashboard to wipe down the condensation that keeps forming.
From inside the passenger's compartment, remove the 7 screws that secure the heater core access cover to the plenum chamber. Trust me, there is a difference. For a novice it could take up to 16hrs. From what I have read so far online I am going to have to pull off the dash to get to it. Trust me, there is a difference. Let us know how that works out with your F-150.
. Drain and recycle the engine coolant. The blend door has the new sleave that goes around the bottom. Get as much out as you can and do look for chewed wiring while in there. Especially if it's a 97 or later F-150 pertinent to this forum. If you have basic auto-repair experience, you can replace the heater hoses on your F150 in about an hour. Over time these hoses weaken from the inside due to the constant temperature changes and mildly corrosive nature of most engine coolants.
I can almost afford it now, but I had that money sat aside for new tires. A couple of those holes in the back are for plastic alignment pins, not screws. Going to call some places on Monday and just get a feeler out for some prices. My commute into the office was more difficult than usual because of the fumes pouring out of the vents. I'm a large person and I just can't see how someone like me can get to the wiring plugs under the dash to disconnect them. The rodent problem is more than likely from the previous owner, this was a fleet truck so it was parked in a shop with leftover lunch on a regular basis. I can do a heater core ina Jeep Patriot in a hour or less also.
It maybe a good idea to replace the blend door while you in there. I removed it and silicone glued a piece I cut to fit from the camper foam into the housing in its place. It sounds like it may be a water pump or thermostat issue. . I had a friend look it up on Mitchell Direct and it estimates 10 hours service to replace a heater core. You have to take the freakin side view mirriors off and the console out or at least back a foot or two.
Parts I Bought For Repair Job There are cheaper brands you can get, but considering how big of a job this is I was recommended to — and agreed — that genuine Ford Motorcraft parts would be a good idea. Pick yours up today with our Same Day Store Pickup and take advantage of our best products, best prices guarantee. A stuck thermostat would be my first guess. I finally found that one hidden screw I was searching for. When the heater core fails in a 1997-2003 F150 the truck will begin to bleed antifreeze quickly. Fords often have a heater core bypass that allows coolant to bypass the heater core, kinda like a pressure relief valve. The flow from the water pump will take the path of least resistance, which could wind up being through your bypass instead of through the rest of the cooling system.
And more if mistakes are made. The 1st ones really do suck but you would be surprise at how much you can knock your time down after you get a few of them under your belt. Gimme call and say the magic word. And be prepared for lots of work or lots of money if you get someone else to replace the core. I repeat, do not pay a mechanic if you have a decent collection of tools and a free half hour in a day.