This gave me nightmares while researching this. You will have to remove the upper and lower intake mani … folds and coolant crossover pipe assembly to reach it. Remove the heater hose from the top heater core pipe. But first, do a diagnostic check before condemning it. Thank you for visiting Snap-on Diagnostics Product Forums.
As it requires considerable disassembly and an expensive new gasket set to reach it, I suggest you make very sure there is something wrong with it first. Separate the two manifolds, then clean the gasket mating surface of all gasket material. Loosen the clamps on the upper radiator hose using the appropriate socket, screwdriver or pliers. So bad to the point of make lots of noises because it is shaking everything and everyone in the car. From what I have learned from another forum is that when Ford and Nissan combined together for these vehicles Ford demanded that the engines would non interference and so it is.
This helped for about 2 more weeks. Start the Villager and check for leaks. The tapped hole is metric. O well, once again thanks you guys for your help. So far all to no effect. This should set it's own fault code. Took it in for emissions and it passed perfect! Mercury Villagers are notorious for throwing knock sensor codes when nothing is in fact wrong with the knock sensor which produces no current under normal conditions.
Loosen the clamps on the bypass hose on the intake manifold water outlet, then remove the hose. I don't think that there is anything special about the wire going to the knock sensor, the 10kohms sound like the resistance of the sensor it's self. Loosen the hose clamps on the air cleaner-to-intake manifold hose clamps, using the appropriate socket, screwdriver or pliers, depending on the type of clamp. The sensor signal … uses a white wire usually- the terminal is located to the immediate right from the upper left corner terminal on the 1997 model. The knock sensor is in the engine V under the intake manifolds and coolant crossover pipe.
Some functions of Snap-on Diagnostics Product Forums will not be available to you if your are not logged in as a registered member. As it requires considerable disassembly and an expensive new gasket set to reach it, I suggest you make very sure there is something wrong with it first. It's the lower of the 2 connectors. It requires considerable disassembly to get to. Then it goes back to normal. This time the mechanic calls me back and says the computer is reading bad knock sensor and that spark 5 is misfiring.
Unbolt and remove the knock sensor using the appropriate socket. Connect the negative battery cable. Pull the radiator hose off the intake manifold. Open or short in harness. The biggest problem I ran into was that the screws had corroded which stripped the threads in the throttle body.
You cut the white wire 4 down in the harness --which leads to the internal sensor taking it out of the system and attach the wire to the new one. Tighten the five Allen head bolts to 14 foot-pounds of torque. It illuminated after engine stalled. The 1 is toward the front of viechle 2 towards the rear, bank 1 is drivers side. I replaced fuel injectors, wires, plugs, distributor and some other parts. After this, the skipping stopped for about 2 weeks then started again.
This requires checking for voltage fluctuations with a voltmeter hooked up to the knock sensor sub-harness electrical connector. The acid leached down the wire under the plastic sheath and corroded it so bad the van would not start. This van gave me one more experience. As it requires considerable disassembly and an expensive new gasket set to reach it, I suggest you make very sure there is something wrong with it first. Good luck and hope this help. I been told after all this that the knock sensor retards timing and causes the fuel no … t to burn as it should.