Changed both front axle shafts, rear main seal and oil pan gasket changed. I can't complain - 11 yrs and 171K on the original alternator. I changed the instrument cluster cos it wasn't clear and legible. Realign glovebox and tighten hinges. I've heard of the control module going maybe that's what it is. Both of these switches can be accessed by removing the wood console piece.
Still did not torn over. Also, leaks from bottom of expansion tank. After some trial and error I made some local contact and was recommend to this site. Sovrn This is an ad network. My story long is below: So you've finally bought an E34 1989 535i privately you can't trust the car sharks with an excellent maintenance record receipts and everything.
Enough to shut back and forth on the drive and then it died again. It settles down when a bit of air flow over the radiator happens for around 5-10mins. Start shopping for a low mileage used one! These codes may give you the real reason for the problem, as they eventually did for me. I have had a 2005 and my current 2008 x5 with 105,000 miles. I'm not getting any fault codes though since they were cleared. When that comes on the check engine light also comes on. Updated seat belt latches are marked with the date as 01.
Recently i have started seeing this error upon startup. Plastic impellers are often cited as a cause; however. Many of them throw all the oil out and burn out,they dont know when to change gear,they slam in and out of drive,i have seen one give up at under 40k. I am going to focus on the most common 6 cylinder M52 and M54 engines. TripleLift This is an ad network. Prior to this, just yesterday I went to get new inspection sticker and it failed.
By then, the positive battery terminal was already melting the plastic casing around it. Loosen it and pull straight up on the handle to remove it. Engine may run rough and hesitate. I have no idea what could cause this, I'm sure the list of possiblilities is long. I know it happens whilst your actually driving but I was wondering if anyone had any ideas what could be up with the showing straight from start? But just because the battery is going bad, it doesn't warrant the car being put into limp mode does it? I bought one but never got to put it in, since bending the spades fixed my problem. Anyone know what they are please?? HubPages Google Analytics This is used to provide data on traffic to our website, all personally identifyable data is anonymized. Scout around the net and see if you can spot many people asking for tranny fluid changes as a preventative measure on for there E60's.
The place to start is reading codes from the computer. Great info from all of you! Bmw Transmission Failsafe Program In addition, it will include a picture of a kind that could be seen in the gallery of Bmw Transmission Failsafe Program. Auxillary fan not working properly Auxillary fan does not operate as expected. Its not speed sensitive, its actually the rpm that is the key. Jun 25, 2012 That is a pretty robust transmission but its computer is very sensitive the quality of the electrical supply. Can someone help me please? Also for check engine light on, make sure that the gas cap is on tight; however, this seems rarely to be the actual cause. So far, I have had replaced, based on the various fault codes: - Idle control valve - Crank case breather and all vacuum hoses - Air mass meter The swirl valve rattles quite a bit and is going to be replaced as its suspected that it might also be faulty, but its more about it rattling on its mounts.
Seals should be replaced with latest versions third-generation at last count , but eventually these also will become noisy as they wear and are contaminated with dirt, wax, etc. Beyond typical tire and alignment checks: Some improvement reported by torquing wheel bolts to 88 ft. In addition, if there trans is constantly in limp mode, I would avoid driving it. See Viet's page for Ticks from the plastic sliding mechanism of the adjusters also can be quieted by padding with a small piece of adhesive felt. Drove the car yesterday for the first time after the problem was fixed.
Beyond obviously checking fuses and testing individual window and door controls, the driver's control serves as the master for the system and many problems seem to be there. Clutch slipping and no drive at all. As the coolant contains minerals, these can produce an electrolytic action that actually dissolves the metal tangs: The thermostat housing was replaced - and that was it, fully working again. Then take it from there. If noise is not substantially reduced, look elsewhere.