Removing the front subframe involves disconnecting the control arms and steering rack and steering column. My quick search shows these case. The indicators measuring arm needs to point at the center of the gear. Whether or not it seems believable right now the shape of the crank end of the rod actually gets a bit oblong during parts of the engine cycle, and this can cause unnecessary stress and wear on the rod, the rod bearing, and especially the crank. Anyways, curious to see the responses Agreed, no doubt some guys have had issues and that's very unfortunate, but it's nothing like the S54. Rod bearings should be replaced as a preventative measure before 80,000 miles. I kept raising subframe and pryed it on the rest of the way.
The connecting rod bores seem to wear bigger over time. Both can come in a variety of packages including sport, journey, awd, and standard. As some cars have had repairs to the bedplate and been fine. A faulty wheel bearing can exhibit a few warning signs. Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk Agreed with al the above.
Who we aren't: We are not a concierge service or a promotional platform. And The forum only represent a small fraction of M3 owners. My car is 5 years old and runs great. I have another M3 with 31k miles which is sleeping for winter, but when it wakes up it will get the same treatment. There's examples of people with 08-09 engines with 160k + miles without a single rod bearing problem.
You will find them available in. The rod bearings in the S65 V8 have been known to fail within 60,000 miles. You will need a finger size chunk of Scotch-Brite and a lot of care because of the limited space around the crankshaft journal. The plaintiffs claim when the connecting rod bearings and main bearings start to fail, metal debris from the bearings is circulated in the oil throughout the engine. It might be worth checking that the essential 1500mile diff oil service was done when the car was new too.
If they were the older style copper ones they would look terrible. I did the removal and reinstallation without removing any more of the air intake. Be prepared for the oil that will inevitably come out. There are by far more N55's on the road than the S65 yet there more documented cases of blown s65's. In other words, if you visualize a line through the center of the measuring arm, and extended outward, it would intersect the center point of the gear. It is half attached to the engine and the oil pan, so we need to loosen it. Possible slightly misaligned or certain stresses during or after assembly causing them to fail.
Keep a quart of 10w60 oil in the trunk at all times, depending on your engine you will burn a quart the engine takes 9 quarts total every few thousand miles or so - for me, it's 1 every 6k but I drive a lot of highway miles, it could be as much as 1 every 2-3k for you. The tranny torx bolts were indeed very tight. This hardware is not required but may be a good idea, especially if your original subframe bolts are rusty. Thanks in advanced November 3, 2016 Followup from the Pelican Staff: No, you will have to replace the wheel hub flange at the minimum. Sure it makes noise, but they all do. I'm not saying E92Love is wrong, just saying the torque values don't feel right to my 20years of this kind of wrenching calibrated hands. If you have two people, remove the last two bolts while supporting the sub frame from both sides, then lower sub frame and steering rack out of the way.
How hard is it to get the old bolts out that had thread locker from the factory? January 23, 2015 Followup from the Pelican Staff: No, the rear is different. Some days are dedicated to certain themes, see below. I feel it is well documented that this car wears through bearings too fast. You should follow the order of instructions explained here Note 3 Rod bearings do not require break in. You can check for a noisy wheel bearing with the vehicle stationary too. While I am aware that people have successfully completed this job with the car on engine stands, I really don't recommend it.