Cheers Tracking will need to be done. I was gobsmacked at the strange ammount of wear!! I dont think it effects the rear because of it been torsion beam rear suspension and the camber angles dont change as the suspension compresses unlike the front. Negative camber will tend to wear the inside edges of the tyres. It's been bought to our attention that certain users are spamming new and existing users with links to their own websites. The Eibach Pro Alignment kits allow you to adjust camber and toe with a single shim, optimising handling and reducing uneven tyre wear. Since the introduction of polyurethane into the aftermarket suspension industry in the early 80's many have tried but few have succeeded in manufacturing accurate, durable parts consistently. You'd need a proper tracking company to set the camber bolts up - not just an outfit with a toe-in gauge! Alarmingly the old ones were down to the canvas on the very inner edge.
We run 1 degree negative camber on most of our own show cars. On the later ones there is quite a bit of adjustment. If you need to re-adjust the camber, loosen both bolts and rotate the lobe bolt to fine tune the setting. . Should you receive such a message, please report this using the 'Report' link you will find at the bottom of the message. Googled Astra H camber kits and it came back with this, no idea if it will be able to increase the camber enough or what the quality is like? I don't even know the std toe settings for these, but as said no need to waste money on camber stuff to correct this problem. If it's a problem then the after market camber adjustment bolts referred to above can be used.
Also the drooping inner wheel will generally get more positive camber than normal and loose grip too. When you have found your desired camber setting torque the factory bolt to the factory setting and the Stance+ bolts to our recommended setting for the bolt size. As you can see I've popped new tyres on a few days ago because the inners of the old one's were seriously scrubbed, the chap who fitted the new one's said i need a pair of custom made shims to go in behind the hubs to sort it. With the large tab pointing towards the wheel will give you positive camber. If you lower the car the arc of the lower suspension arm moves the bottom wishbone ball joint out and so increases the negative camber.
Even with just a sports exhaust back box, your car can sound like it means business and have a noticeable improvement in power. Or should go for -0. Did you get a print out from them? We sell hundreds of Eibach camber kits a year; they are a relatively cheap modification that gives big results! Whilst toe-in is adjustable via the track rod ends and always worth checking after suspension work , the camber is not adjustable. Save on expensive repair costs and down time by using the PowerAlign Magnetic Camber Gauge. They will have a list with the factory settings on that they will allign up. We have all the leading brands including Ultra, InPro and Auto Art all at unbeatable prices. I'm still in the group that takes my car to a garage and asks for something to be done and am trusting enough to think it will be done proper! You can dramatically update the look for your car with some new lighting.
As it's lowered you'll have more negative camber so it's not going to be in spec. Whilst toe-in is adjustable via the track rod ends and always worth checking after suspension work , the camber is not adjustable. We all like a bit of luxury, and you spend a lot of time in your car, so spoil it a little. This easy to use adjuster provides built-in adjustment over the life of a vehicle just by rotating the head of the bolt. From what you've said I think it's more likely the ball joints are off than the subframe. I should hope that this would be accurate enough. Is there anything I can do or get that 'straightens' the wheels a bit so they don't wear as much? Free flowing exhausts get the gases out of the engine quicker, and help improve power and acceleration, especially at higher revs.
I was told when the alignment was checked that the left side has been pushed by about 0°30' positive camber and the right has been pushed further negative by about -0°30' as shown in my above post for left and right. That's the effect you're seeing. If you lower the car the arc of the lower suspension arm moves the bottom wishbone ball joint out and so increases the negative camber. I think that it's the increased negative camber that's causing the issues. If not, how do you know they are warmer than prvious to lowering? Get the tracking redone so the front wheels are at the correct toe and you will be fine. Fine if you want your tyres to last longer, but wont help your handling Actually a lot of the time this inside wear is from doing agressive pullaways, especially when turning, less of this will definately help; Especially Gadget, to wear the sidewall that bad it can only mean the wheels were turned and probably spinning, so less right foot on roundabouts and junctions will help a lot; :roll::D As a quick fix 0 toe or a very slight toe in also helps, and get it done with you in the car too, and a slightly lower tyre pressure can also help. Please refer to the following information we have provided for you.
This is possible because SuperPro products achieve consistent tyre-to-road-alignment, particularly under braking and cornering loads. The castor angle will not change enough with a lowering kit. Optimum camber settings will result in more speed and ideal tyre wear. I'd try find a garage that you trust the mechanics if I were you thought id bring this up again as im still not right. Biggest problem with this is you change the camber gain curve of the suspension for the worse. Mild negative camber is recommended for the road. First take a baseline camber reading to determine whether your car needs a positive or negative camber setting.
I expected wear from the camber but not like it was. Its not so much camber that causes excessive wear but toe angle. The front wheels seem to be adjusted but at too aggressive a camber. From organic to paddle clutches, we have them all. Even a replacement element alone can add a couple of horses, and you never have to replace it, so they quickly pay for themselves. The camber on the Astra front end, as its Mcpherson strut, is given by the positions of the shock top mount and the lower arm inner and outer bushes, so the length of the lower arm.
Negative camber gain in bump is good, as it should provide more grip on the outer wheel as you corner harder and the tyre is more heavily loaded. Cheers Just make sure you take it to a trustworthy place to get the tracking checked, when I lowered mine and put some camber onto the front, the place I took it blagged me about the tracking, I didn't realise it at the time as I was working away alot but when I checked the tyres one day I saw alot heavier wear on one side. I've had my tracking done when I put my new tyres on the front. The ecentric strut to knuckle bolts are a cheat, angling the knuckle without moving either the top mount or lower arm. We sell hundreds of Stance Plus camber kits a year; they are a relatively cheap modification that gives big results! The amount of static camber that you should run is a result of testing, and set up. Needless to say I got it retracked elsewhere straight away and its calmed down and just rotated the tyres round front to back I have the same issue. Shackle and mounting pins, control arm and spring eyes and shoulders must show no major signs of pitting or damage - any damaged components must be replaced or repaired to vehicle manufacturers tolerances.
Always check the toe when making camber or caster adjustments. Venom Motorsport are premium stockists for the Stance Plus pro alignment kit range and can offer some superb discounts on the whole camber correcting range. The question is though why is it out. I have now inserted the correct previous camber angle results in my above post. What should the camber be for optimum tyre wear, not for track days?! Powerflex Camber Adjustment Bolt Kits. To be honest I doubt you'd see any damage unless you had a good bump. If the top of the tyre tilts out away from the centre of the car then you have positive camber.