This is why most cams offered for the Olds have more duration and lift on the exhaust side-to compensate for this. If you don't care about looking stock the Edelbrock Performer is a nice upgrade and adds a noticeable improvement in power and torque. Finally got mine in the mail the other day, read it cover to cover! Looking at maybe going with an Electric Water Pump to save space, its just a bit more cash. Note that the port openings on most street-header flanges are actually smaller than the port exit dimensions of many big-block Olds heads. The exhaust consists of Hooker Super Comp headers and a 3-inch exhaust through Hedman cross-pipes that leads to a pair of 3-inch, 50-series Flowmasters. We must remember what the Olds is good at making face-distorting torque and what it is not so good at oiling to plan the buildup. It has only 50,000 miles on it.
Interestingly, the cams were on the cylinder head, and the gear drive on the nose of the crankshaft was in the block, creating a variation in the heights of numerous components. Engine and Performance Warehouse in Anaheim, California, repaired our ailing crank and gave it a perfect 0. Part of this is the head design and the restricted exhaust port. My hopes is I can find one smaller bracket that I can tuck down lower and then I should have plenty of clearance for what I need. Plus, you get a couple of Edelbrock T-shirts, too! The rebuilt trans had a shift kit and it would bark the tires nicely at the 1-2 shift.
Car Craft's final 455 article is finally done. They also devised a method to measure the amount of air that passes through both intake and exhaust valves. I ran into a few fitment issues as expected. The trans died at 50K, but I was happy it did as it had been slipping for some time anyway. I am putting it into my '42 Chevy to replace the Olds 350 in it for more power. Anyway, sounds like the Edelbrock heads are worth the money.
Ditch the nonadjustable rockers for a set of stud-mounted rollers. I'm sure there are web pages that talk about it. One of the causes was due to the high angularity between the pushrods and the lifters. Build it to make crazy torque with low compression and a good cam with adequate vacuum, and you won't need a crazy converter or rear gear ratio to wind it up. The block was surfaced to square-up the decks, then align-honed to true up the main-bearing bores for the stock crank, which was cross-drilled for improved oiling and ground 0.
Bulldog and Edelbrock both have good aluminum castings for street cars. Won't that make nice Valentine Day dinner conversation? Just goes to show with enough ingenuity and application of cubic money almost anything can be made to fly. For carbs I would either use a Jet Performance Quadrajet or an Edelbrock 750. My best was still the 13. If the passenger-side manifold has two openings, it's a single-exhaust application, and likely from an 88 or 98. After I sold it, it sat dead for a long time, but about a year ago, I saw it driving around with the guy I sold it to behind the wheel.
Intake I'll always use a two plane intake for the street, either the original or a Performer. I was planing with an Art Morrison after market frame or do you know some one that builds better or equal at a better price. More room for splashing oil to fly around? I had the opportunity to ride in a '76 Caddy with the same year engine, wow was I impressed. Arts are 17,000 with the works so to speak. The big Olds kept on keeping on. Picture this in your minds eye. Additionally, a ring of nine irregularly spaced holes allowed the timing to be adjusted based on the positioning of the camshaft and drive gear.
Well, another month of CarCraft and no mention of the Buick motor. He was particularly well-known to Oldsmobile collectors. Getting it in gently with this bigger Oil pan was a challenge and took some finesse. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. These pass through the deck surface and connect with the drain back holes in the lower corners of the heads.
If you need to bore then remember that forged pistons are not much more expensive than cast for an Olds and they are superior stronger and better heat dissipation. If you plan to do any porting at all, the J heads flow as good as any and are dirt cheap. I have an F block and E heads. Because of the high cost of Oldsmobile pistons the big question is to bore or not to bore. Because when our servicemen came back from overseas after defeating Nazi slime, they were a restless, wild bunch who had a tremendous amount of technical know-how and were aching to use it.
Got the 455 into the car. That's just my opinion though. For only having 8:1 compression and being saddled with 2. Car as it currently sits, Obviously the suspension will change quite a bit. The block is too thin to 4-bolt without modification. The windowed mains were used on all Olds engines pushrod V8 from 1977 on, including the 350 except diesel and 307. Consider changing the rear gear regardless of whether you go with an overdrive.