Sounds like one extreme or the other, or both: 1 the needle is sticking, starving the bowl of fuel or 2 the float height is off, either too high or too low. The rest can be plugged at the port or t1t or n1pple censorship bypass On carb and on intake manifold. In the above photo a yellow wire was spliced into the purple wire of the module. What is the manifold vacuum with the engine idling, and is it steady on the gauge? I had a complete diagram on my white board, but it's since been erased. Best, Moses A couple of photos to show what I mean by a bypassed module, sorry for the out of focus cell phone photos.
We use number 1 plug wire because the timing marks on the timing cover correspond with the position of number 1 piston. So I ended up ordering an Offenhauser intake. Also since I have a 79 I don't need Catalytic Converters! Does exhaust at the tailpipe end feel restricted? I cut off the vacuum bell and welded the base closed. This is a start and will help clarify the typical components in these systems: Start by reviewing these materials. I had the injection assembly that bolts to the wagoneer exhaust manifold. Included are chrome diamond plate rear corners, hard top, hard doors, soft top no frame , soft doors, spare tire carrier, the carburetor that came off it before the new engine, the transmission that came out of it before the replacement.
Since these components all interact, there is no clear formula for eliminating subsets. The Weber carb is easily adjusted, cleans up the engine compartment, and most important to me stopped my engine surge issue. You're gonna have to count marks! Missouri doesn't really care if you change the carbs and headers. I cut off the ends that fit to the bolts and started planning. Getting better at this stuff. Please have one extra, in Jeep, minimum tooling to change it! It is available at the magazine.
Since my headers were worthless to me without the tubes I decided to break out the tools and modify them a bit. This past week I had the opportunity to guide hunters on a safari style hunt and ran the Jeep through our back country, and to be honest I was a little embarrassed at times, I plan on giving the guys at Weber a call but of course I'm interested in your opinion first. Keeping it simple is the best advice I can give you. If this has happened, it will be impossible to correctly set timing. There is also a similar-sized hose that runs from the air filter to the oil fill cap V8 or the front of the valve cover I6. I like this, as the continual fuel flow reduces risk of fuel vapor lock.
Moses I have a question about the idle fuel:air mixture screw. Here's a list of the parts that need to be there thanks to Merril Mosely and concurred by the Haynes manual At least it's useful for once! Moses There was no stuck needle this morning as I tried a cold start. I could smell and see fuel entering the intake manifold. Not afraid to get dirty! See the vacuum circuit diagram. This installation requires that a fuel pressure regulator be used to regulate the pressure to around 3.
The Aluminum tubing wasn't in very good shape and I changed the way I wanted it routed so I replaced it with some copper tubing from the hardware store. As a retailer, we set our own prices independently, but some manufacturers restrict how we may communicate those prices. Call toll free to order or place your order online via our secure checkout system. This is a new Weber carb that came completely built. First problem encountered was an overheating issue. From there the yellow wire was connected to a purple wire that disappeared under the distributor cap. This would simulate the incline that would cause the vehicle to flood and stall.
I pulled a plug to verify that I had spark and yes I had it, but she will not start. So in an effort to force the fuel into the carb I bypassed the regulator. It should look just like this module. Unless you're idling the Jeep a lot, richness causing poor fuel mileage would be more aptly due to rich main jetting. Glad you sent your Email.
You must keep records and tell me all happening on your end. The jetting provided with the Weber should be for sea level. Fortunately I found the air intake a few feet over in the dirt. I do have limited mechanical knowledge. That video shares the concerns and remedies. It will run better on man.
Unfortunately, I did not write that description and did not save the link for where I found it. I called the good folks at Weber and spoke to a knowledgeable fellow about the flooding issue I spoke of in my last post. Neither of these devices should operate with the throttle closed or at an idle position. For an orientation, here is the basic engine vacuum circuit and device orientation for most '81-'90 Jeep 4. If you don't have a vacuum guage, get one and hook it up to every vacuum port you can find and check if that port sucks air - do this when the engine is cold and when it is hot.
This gauge measures to 30 in. The flooding on a hill could be a float level set too high. This can be our blueprint when discussing what needs to remain intact. It is a straight cut, perpendicular to the H. We can troubleshoot and evaluate ways to make the engine run adequately if you stick with carburetion. There are a variety of vacuum and electrical devices in the emissions, spark and carburetor circuits. Moses I re routed the fuel pressure regulator and discovered that it had a broken spring causing it to not regulate.